In the heart of the North Island, around places like Whanganui and Hamilton, leather production
has been an important part of local industry for over a century. Leather is used to make shoes,
bags, saddles, jackets, and many traditional Māori taonga (treasures) such as belts and kete
(woven bags). But how is it made?
The journey of leather begins with the hide — the skin of an animal, most commonly cows. In
Aotearoa, hides are usually collected from meat processing plants, where animals have been
ethically farmed and used for food. Instead of throwing away the hides, they are cleaned and
prepared for leather making, a process that ensures sustainability and reduces waste.
Once collected, the hides are salted or chilled to prevent rotting. Then they are sent to a
tannery. Tanning is the process that turns raw hide into leather. First, the hides are soaked in
large drums to soften them and remove hair and fat. This step, called liming, also helps clean
the hide thoroughly.
Next comes the tanning step itself. There are two main types: vegetable tanning, which uses
natural plant materials, and chrome tanning, which uses minerals like chromium. Vegetable
tanning takes longer but is better for the environment. Chrome tanning is faster and makes
leather softer and more flexible.
After tanning, the hides are dried and dyed. They might be coloured brown, black, or even bright
colours depending on what they’ll be used for. The leather is then stretched, rolled, and cut into
shapes for making different products. Some pieces are stitched or glued into bags, shoes,
jackets, or craftwork.
In Whanganui, some local artisans and whānau still use traditional handcraft methods, blending
modern science with old knowledge. Many workshops work with Māori artists, who use leather
in kapa haka uniforms and cultural items.
As people become more interested in ethical fashion and sustainable practices, New Zealand’s
leather industry is adapting. Some tanneries are using eco-friendly methods to reduce water
and chemical use. Others are creating workshops and school programs to teach young people
the craft and care behind leatherwork.
Leather isn’t just a material — it’s part of a wider story of farming, fashion, and Māori and settler
history in Aotearoa.
Questions:
- Where does most of the leather in New Zealand come from?
Most of New Zealand’s leather comes from cows.
- Why are the hides salted or chilled before being tanned?
The reason why the hides are salted is because it prevents it from rotting.
- What is liming, and what does it do?
Liming is where you clean the hide thoroughly.
- Name two types of tanning and describe one benefit of each.
The two types of tanning are vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. Chrome tanning is good because it makes the leather more flexible and vegetable tanning is good for the environment.
- What happens to the leather after it is tanned?
After the tanning the hides are dried then dyed.
- How is vegetable tanning different from chrome tanning?
Vegetable tanning is different from chrome tanning because vegetable tanning takes longer and is better for the environment.
- Why is leather production considered sustainable in some ways?
The reason why leather production is considered sustainable in some ways is because some leather production ways are better for the environment.
- What are some traditional Māori uses for leather?
Some traditional uses of leather for maori are kapa haka uniforms and cultural items.
- How is the industry changing today?
The industry is changing because tanneries are using eco-friendly methods to reduce water and chemical use.
- Why is it important to learn about the leather-making process?
The reason why it is important to learn about the leather-making process is because in the future people will need to use leather and how to process it.